Can someone give me directions on making faux water out of pourable resin?
((I’d be happy with being linked to directions too))
Essentially, I’m looking to making the “Blue Potion” from the Legend of Zelda video games. I have a glass jar with a cork top, and would now like to fill it with a transparent blue material to make it look like it contains a liquid.
So I would need to know what pourable resin to buy, how to add the color, and how to pour/setup the resin in the bottle.
I’m completely lost when it comes to this craft, but like to think I’m pretty crafty and can follow instructions well! 
Here are some examples of what I’m trying to recreate:
http://images3.wikia.nocookie.net/zelda/images/6/6a/Blue_Potion_%28A_Link_to_the_Past%29.png
http://www.zeldauniverse.net/images/games/tww/items/bluepotion.png
http://www.craftster.org/pictures/data/500/zelda_blue1.jpg
The Envirotex seems to be used for applying layers, not creating a solid mass. Is it ok to just pour several ounces into a confined space?
Suggested Reading:
Terrarium Craft: Create 50 Magical, Miniature WorldsEasy to make and a wonder to behold, jewel-like terrariums are winning over a new generation of crafters and gardeners. From the simplest of combin... Read More >
Related Posts
I use envirotex on my HO train layouts. You should be able to add some blue food coloring to get the shade you want.
Here’s a link:http://www.eti-usa.com/consum/envtex/envlite.htm
You’re right about the thickness-of-pours that regular epoxy resins (like Envirotex Lite) are ususally used for, but they may work in small amounts –and coloring the resin would make any yellowing that happened in a deeper pour of epoxy resin not too visible.
You could also use other versions of resin though, or even “simulations” of resin that aren’t really resins–especially if you didn’t want to spend $15-20 for the smallest sizes (see below).
There are different “safety” levels for the different types of resin, and each has certain characteristics before or after curing that can be important for a specific use.
One really “safe” resin would be what’s called a floral setting resin (the kind used for filling transparent vases with something that looks like water so that stems of artificial flowers can stand up in them and not move)… you can buy that in the floral dept of a craft store like Michaels, or some florist shops may sell it too. It’s a two-part resin like most of the rest, but although an epoxy it *can* be poured deeply in one pour, although it will be softer once set and can attract dust to its surface because of that –which won’t matter to you at all since it will be inside a closed bottle.
The new “tweaked” version of regular epoxy resin called Easy Cast can also be poured deeply in one pour, and is very safe. It will cure a little softer and more flexible if body heat is applied than regular epoxy resin but firmer than floral setting resin –again, probably not a problem since your resin will be encapsulated and also insulated.
For a really small amount of resin like this, you could also just use the *thicker* version of regular epoxy resin known as “epoxy glue” for less cost. (I hear that the Devcon 30-min 2-Ton one is the clearest.)
Polyester resins would certainly work (though might have a slightly rippled surface)… they can always be poured deeply, but their fumes are definitely worse for lungs than any of the epoxy resins.
As for coloring resins, sometimes water-based colorants will work if not too much is used (food colors, etc.), but if you don’t want to buy the special colorants sold for resins, you can just use artists’ oil paints (in tubes) which are fairly transparent. (To make any of those more opaque, just add Titanium White oil paint which is always opaque.)
You can also mix in various colored particulate-type inclusions to get the color (Pearl Ex powders, artists pigments, etc.), but if you use too much the resin will become less and less transparent.
There are also one-part materials that can be used as “simulations of resin” that might work just as well for you and be cheaper, and you could color any of them… for example:
…clear fingernail polish (if you get one that’s acrylic, perhaps for acrylic nails, color with water-based colorants like food colors, acrylic paints)
…clear “acrylic mediums”… perhaps gloss acrylic medium in this case (buy near acrylic paints in craft/art stores)
…clear polyurethane (for water-based ones, add water-based colorants)
…acrylic floor polishes like Future-Pledge or Mop ‘N Glo (water-based colorants)
(other things could work too… see link below under Simulations of Resin)
There’s a load of info, lessons, examples, etc, re all those things on this page at my site, if you’re interested in more details:
http://glassattic.com/polymer/other_materials.htm
Diane B.